The Jacoby family brings the ranch-to-table tradition to Austin By Veronica Meewes | September 5, 2014
When it comes down to it, those opposed to the rapidly developing landscape of Austin are usually afraid we're losing the city we love – the whole reason we all moved here (or stayed here) in the first place. But we could all stand to learn a lesson from the Jacoby family, which has embraced change in the best way possible: by honoring the past while simultaneously growing with the needs and wants of our evolving city.
Jason Jacoby grew up farming and ranching in the hog business with his father. After decades of experience raising and showing animals, he decided to start his own feed company, Jacoby Feed & Seed, in 1981. The Jacobys' belief is that the health of the animal begins in the foundation of the feed, and they've developed more than 50 blends for cattle, deer, goats, sheep, boars, chickens, and more. They pride themselves in show animals, and have already seen 200 of their customers win championships in 2014 from their feed. They ship their blends (many custom-made) all over the states through their own rail center, and the on-site feed store carries everything from lanterns and bird feeders to household tools, cleaning products, pest control, and (of course) feed and seed.
In 2002, Jason added a kitchen to the feed store, where he and his employees all took turns cooking lunch every day. He also decided to add a grocery element to the kitchen, since the closest store to Melvin (population 184) is 18 miles away in Brady. But he soon realized they were a bit too far off the beaten path to attract customers for more than the occasional carton of milk. "So we said, 'Let's take [the shelves] out, fill it full of chairs and booths and just go to cooking!'" Jason recalls. And just as organically as a small feed store developed into a major operation with its own rail center, Jacoby's Cafe was born.
"All I ever intended to do was cook stuff that you do cook at a convenience store," says Jason. "Hamburgers and burritos and that kinda stuff." Soon, Jacoby's morphed into an entire selection of homestyle Texas comfort food – done really well. The perfectly salt-and-peppered golden batter on the chicken-fried steak and onion rings melts in your mouth. Fresh greens are found in the vibrant side salads, and their rotating desserts are all noticeably homemade fresh every day. There's a freezer full of meat for customers to buy and take home, with selections like rib eye, brisket, jalapeño Cheddar sausage, ground beef, and strip steak. And the fresh, juicy, and flavorful steaks and burgers they serve in the cafe are a testament to the quality of their all-natural meat.
"No hormones of any kind are ever put into this feed or in the animal," assures Jason. "And the difference, when you go and look at the big feed yards, is they're always looking for ways to make that animal perform better. Just like athletes taking some of the things they take to build muscle. We don't do that."
"People are so into grass-fed [beef], but if you feed animals the right way, it is no different than feeding yourself or an athlete," explains Jason's son Adam. "These animals were bred to produce
meat to be consumed. They are market animals. So when you do it the right way and uphold the quality in the feed and the way the animals are treated and where they're fed – when all those things line up, things come together really nicely and you have a healthier, happier, more well- balanced product."
The Black Baldie and Angus cattle the Jacobys raise still graze on plenty of grass and wander in sun through wide-open pastures. "They just have an easier life," says Jason. "When they're only grass-fed, they're scrounging to get the proper nutrition they need to develop."
Adam grew up working at the feed company, sacking corn, raising sheep for stock showing, and working in the cafe through high school. "There were some nights [when] a grill cook wouldn't show up and we would be cooking the steak that night," says Adam. "I learned how to work the fryer, I bussed many a table, I ran the cash register many times. It was kind of a natural progression for me." By the time he moved to Austin to study business at UT, he'd already decided he wanted to share the fruits of his family's labor by opening a Jacoby's in Austin.
After graduating, Adam returned to Melvin to run the cafe, this time bringing with him a fresh perspective. The first change he made was obtaining a beer-and-wine license, followed by a remodel of the cafe. Herringbone wood paneling, reclaimed from an old Melvin building, now warms the dining room. The ceiling beam came from an old railroad bridge in town, and a rusty exterior of a barn roof replaced ceiling tiles in the cafe. Big barrels act as cocktail tables with stool seating when you first enter, and Mason jars of wildflowers give a pop of color to each table.
When Adam told his parents about his dream of opening up an Austin location of the restaurant, they suggested he first go get some more experience at other restaurants in Austin. And he did just that, moving back to work the front of the house at the now-shuttered Rivals Steakhouse, then Banger's Sausage House, and finally Clark's Oyster Bar.
"That's when I really gained an appreciation," remembers Adam. "The idea I had in my mind of every detail that needs to be paid attention to? That's when I saw it carried fully out."
It was during this return to Austin that Adam met and began dating local designer Kris Swift, owner of Future Design Now (and a former competitor on HGTV'sDesign Star). Upon hearing of Adam's goal project, they began scouting locations together. "I've always known that, if anywhere can appreciate doing something different or doing something with a little more care, it'll be Austin," says Adam.
One day while out biking, they found a spot right along the Colorado River, on East Cesar Chavez between Tillery and Springdale, in a midcentury space once occupied by Kanetzky Electric. Now with Swift by his side as creative director, Adam's dream started to become a reality.
They began sourcing bricks and barnwood from Melvin to be used throughout the restaurant – in walls, fences, and ceilings. What they didn't scavenge on their own was brought to the feed store by Melvin ranchers eager to contribute. "It's the passing of the torch generationally. Every piece of wood has a history and different patina," says Kris.
"For me, it's special here because I've been hands-on in finding a lot of this," says Jason, who would often go scouting with Adam and Kris. "Of course, all I did was drive them around and show them and I'd listen to them say, 'It would be great if we did that!' and then 'Dad, can you get all that put on a pallet and bring it to Austin?' 'Yeah, we can do that!'" he says with a smile.
And the Jacoby Feed & Seed crew was on-hand to help with the whole building process. "It's kind of like a piece of them is here too," says Jason. "Because they're helping feed those kids and haul them to the butcher and pick the meat up and bring it here. And they tore down the barns and built the fences."
Adam and Kris began scouring the state, picking up treasures like antique chandeliers, vintage
hobnail glassware, and framed needlepoint scenes. "It made me appreciate their vision," says Adam's mom Kelly Jacoby. "When I'd go stay with them at the house, they'd have these [inspiration] boards up. I never knew how much depth of thought you had to go into to figure all this out."
Of course, working so closely with family has its challenges too, especially with a project so passionate and close to the heart. Adam says the key is "definitely communication, but there's also a level of respect because they've been doing this since the Eighties – for a lot longer than we have – and we wouldn't be here today if they weren't doing something right."
"And you learn what's really important to someone else. And you listen and you talk it out, and that's how progress is made," says Kris.
On Aug. 20, Jacoby's Restaurant & Mercantile opened, bringing true ranch-to-table dining to Austin by utilizing a system of microeconomics known as vertical integration. Kris explains: "It's a Jacoby cow that's raised on Jacoby property, augmented on Jacoby feed that comes in on the Jacoby rail center that then is transported, by Jacoby's, to the restaurant in Austin and then prepared by Jacoby's Restaurant & Mercantile in Austin and served with a smile and a handshake by Adam Jacoby on the floor."
The menu includes a mix of classic dishes from Melvin, like their signature chicken-fried steak and their hamburger steak, which is stuffed with cheese, topped with grilled green and white onions, draped in a velvety veal sauce, and filled with layers of flavor. "We dry-age the whole carcass instead of just the prime cuts, so the beef that's used in our burgers is dry-aged ground beef, which
changes the flavor of the whole thing," says Adam.
They've also added some more upscale menu items while maintaining a feeling of classic Southern comfort: creamy deviled eggs with a kick of pickled radish, rich shrimp and grits finished with smoked paprika oil, grilled cabbage with citrus and coriander. Homage is paid to both Adam and Kris' families on the cocktail menu – with Grandma Jacoby's signature West Texas Shandy (Coors Light and Big Red) and the Muskoka Smash, named after Kris' Canadian hometown, which is rife with blackberries this time of year (many often ending up in family cocktails). As the weather gets cooler, they look forward to adding more family recipes to the menu, like shepherd's pie, cornbread, and a cowboy stew that's been passed down through generations.
In the same spirit as the Melvin cafe, Jacoby's Restaurant & Mercantile features an attached grocery concept with cuts of meat to take home, jars of homemade jams and pickles, and fresh-cut flowers. Items like Malin+Goetz bath products, vintage cake plates, apothecary jars filled with old- fashioned candy, and artisanal salt give the shop a curated, stylized feel. Soon, they will add raised- bed gardens and chicken coops to the property beyond the patio.
In a color print by photographer Gray Malin which hangs in the main dining room, two cowboys look across the desert toward the Prada Marfa installation, an image representing the marriage of urban and rural, old and new, tradition and innovation. "Jacoby's is something where Adam really wanted, from the beginning, for there to be a sense of discovery in the property, in the different spaces," says Kris. "And I think that photo represents discovery."
The same can be said for the old tractor sign from the Forties which Adam managed to trade for a bale of hay and turn into the prized neon sign welcoming guests into the restaurant. "You can see the neon and just look at it as something new," says Kris. "You can see the sign and see it as something old that was reclaimed. Or you can look at it together and dig deeper into the story that's actually behind it to find out that Adam's grandfather bought tractors and had them serviced at the actual building where that sign came from. There's always more to the story – it always goes deeper. The deeper people delve into the Jacobys' story, the more richness they'll find in that authenticity and in that family history."
By Lance Avery Morgan | September 4, 2014
Craft cocktails, anyone? At Jacoby’s
Jacoby’s Austin, the family-owned restaurant and mercantile, has made its long-awaited debut in the budding East Cesar Chavez neighborhood...and it’s taking the Texas restaurant scene by storm. The pioneers at Jacoby’s Austin serve ranch-style cuisine with a southern flair and rustic influence. The restaurant features a full-service bar and dining room, cocktail porch and a backyard-style patio deck with sweeping views of the Colorado River. Also, adjacent to the restaurant is a mercantile, which features artisan jams, jellies, meats, farm eggs, fresh flowers and home goods. Jacoby’s Austin is the newest addition to the Jacoby family company, originally from Melvin, TX. It’s really the perfect mix of style and substance. Jacoby’s cool drink treats Co-founder Adam Jacoby grew up in the small town of Melvin, TX and realized his dream to expand
his family’s café to Austin when came to Austin to attend The University of Texas. Jacoby helped to open several local Austin restaurants, then it was back to Melvin to revamp the family café. Upon his return to Austin, he made East Austin his home and found the old Kanetzky electrical warehouse to be the perfect spot for his new venture. “We searched and searched for the perfect place for Jacoby’s,” says Adam Jacoby. “When we walked out back at this spot on East Cesar Chavez, we both knew this was the place. It felt like home.” His partner, design impresario Kris Swift, created the space to reflect the Austin neighborhood and to pay homage to Jacoby’s hometown roots by incorporating bricks, reclaimed wood and even, an historic 1940’s sign from the small Texas town. It’s the details that up to a winning combination here. The food and drink? Beyond spectacular. Executive Chef Phillip Anderson’s southern-focused culinary skills is the perfect fit for Jacoby’s. The Austin menu showcases Melvin favorites such as the onion rings and chicken fried steak, however Anderson updated the menu to adapt to the Austin palate. New items include a Wild Boar Terrine as part of a housemade charcuterie plate, Smoked Gouda Pimento Cheese Sandwiches and a Roasted Beet Salad. The menu prominently features Jacoby’s beef from the Jacoby family ranch, and the restaurant will be the only place in Austin to feature the family’s beef, humanely raised on the family farm. Worth celebrating at Jacoby’s The cocktail menu features playful twists on classics like the Secret Beach, a take on a Tom Collins with local fruit and cucumber, named as a tribute to one of the Colorado River’s secret treasures that Jacoby’s overlooks. A local beer menu and plenty of wines are also available. There is walk-up seating at the bar and a full food menu. The backyard patio will also have full service cocktails and food. So what are you waiting for? Visit the venue and also, http://www.jacobyaustin.com
http://www.thesocietydiaries.com/2014/09/7825
By Meghan McCarron | September 4, 2014
Tipsters, readers, friends and family of Eater Austin always want to know: Where should I eat right now? What are the buzziest new restaurants? What haven't I heard of? What's everyone talking about?
To answer those questions, behold the 39th edition of the Eater Austin Heatmap. Fall brings a fresh crop of new restaurants: locally-obsessed Dai Due, ranch to table Jacoby's Restaurant and Mercantile, and long-anticipated modern Southern Olamaie.
http://austin.eater.com/archives/2014/09/04/where-to-eat-in-austin-right-now-september-14.php
By Meghan McCarron | September 4, 2014
Jacoby's Restaurant and Mercantile .
Newly opened
http://austin.eater.com/archives/2014/09/04/ranch-to-table.php
is deeply rooted
in Texas ranching and small-town culture
the path owner Adam Jacoby took from his family ranch and
The Chronicle traces
restaurant in Melvin to a hot new East Austin restaurant.
[Chronicle]
By Ane Urquiola | September 2, 2014
Austin’s new restaurant scene shows no symptoms of slowing down. Case in point: Jacoby’s Restaurant & Mercantile, a new farm to table restaurant serving up rustic food, many of the ingredients being sourced directly from the Jacoby family’s business that includes their own Jacoby beef (more on that in a second!).
Jacoby’s Exterior
Lovely sitting area at the front of the restaurant . I was able to go a few nights after they officially opened, and I was incredibly pleased. Upon walking in, you feel like you’re walking into the family’s ranch house in Melvin, Texas. Although rustic in its design, they have really paid a lot of attention to detail (thanks to Kris Swift), evidenced by their decorative touches like beautifully colored Texas Hill Country flowers at every table, vintage ball mason jars to hold your ice-cold water, cascading succulents that greet you when you walk
outside, and other pastoral elements throughout the restaurant that makes everything feel unfussy yet chic.
Jacoby’s dining room
Adam Jacoby visiting with Andrew after we walked in Beautiful sitting area – I must have these chairs for my home!! They’ve made great use of their space, having about the same amount of seats indoors as they do
outdoors. This place reminds me a bit of Contigo, only it has an outdoor area overlooking the water and they’ve paid more attention to detail.
Outdoor sitting area, great for cocktails and appetizers Backyard sitting area overlooking the water
I love all the rustic, vintage elements
Texas Hill Country wild flowers and blue mason jars
Outdoor sitting/picnic area overlooking the water
Ok–on to the food!! Remember the Jacoby Beef I mentioned? Well, their burgers may have been some of the best I’ve ever tried, certainly in the running for best burger in Austin!! Holy moly the beefy flavor and juiciness of each burger is marvelous, with each bite you wonder how they can pack so much flavor in one patty. I guess it does help that the beef they raise is bred, and processed in Central Texas, and the Jacoby family feeds the cattle their own proprietary feed, and pasture raise the cattle as well. They also bake their own brioche buns for the burgers, which adds a whole other buttery element to the ultimate burger.
Because we were at an event, they teased us with a slider version of their delicious burger. Andrew had 4 of them.
Jacoby’s deviled eggs
Other noteworthy and southern inspired dishes were their delicious deviled eggs. I’m a big fan of simplicity and big flavor, and these deviled eggs didn’t disappoint. They’re served with some pickled
radish and a sprinkle of dill, and let the eggs speak for themselves.
While we’re on the topic of southern things, I’d be a horrible person if I didn’t tell you about their
version of the Moscow Mule (making me drool just thinking about it right now). Called the Melvin Mule, this little guy packs so much punch and flavor that you’ll want to drink this all night. They concoct this with Ancho Reyes, an ancho chile liqueur, lime, and tangy ginger beer. It’s the perfect cocktail for sitting outside on their beautiful patio, enjoying the late afternoon sun while sitting
under one of their plentiful fans and enjoying the Texas heat. The Melvin Mule, I wanted to drink 9 of them
Entering the Mercantile portion of Jacoby’s from the restaurant
When you head to Jacoby’s Restaurant & Mercantile, don’t forget to visit the Mercantile portion of the place, it’s amazing!! As you walk in, you feel like you just hit the Roundtop jackpot, having all
the fabulous antiques and goods in one small space. If Kris is there, make sure to ask him about the goods they have for sale, he does a phenomenal job of curating all the merchandise, and some are so popular (like the candles) that the mercantile sold out just a few days after opening!!
Table of goods: candles, cake stand, flowers, vases – you name it
While you’re in there, make sure to peek in the fridge to get a look at some other yummy things they have on hand, along with the Jacoby family’s beef and other cuts of meat. They’ll be incorporating other cuts of meat into the restaurant’s menu throughout the year, and while you can take it home and cook it yourself, I highly recommend you make sure to try it there so you know what it’s supposed to taste like ;). To get more info about the restaurant as well as it’s hours and where it’s located, you can get that info here.
http://hungrygirlaustin.com/jacobys/
